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Glossary

acabado
The process of finishing a garment by applying finishing techniques to the seams and selvages or borders.
accesorio
Secondary component of garments of principal costumes including rings, belts, shoes etc.
acolla
Large item of clothing worn by female authorities in Qaqachaka, that comes in two parts. In its composition there is a predominance of black, brown or dark blue and at the edge it has three narrow strips and a narrow open area at the extremes of the weft.
acso
One-piece item of clothing that wraps around the body horizontally and is secured at the shoulders by pins: there are two forms of this, the square version that seems to be for everyday use, and the rectangular for ceremonial use.
actividad
This refers to an ordered activity learned during apprenticeship in weaving, which is generally directly linked to a process in the chain of textile production: spinning, warping and weaving
actores de valoración
Person who intervenes directly or indirectly in the evaluation of a textile product.
acuerdo
Agreement at a local, regional or national level between different actors, whose aims are to reflect on the different aspects of textile production, publish works related to this topic, establish national norms for textiles, supervise projects and collaborate in the search for finance for them.
adorno cefálico
Component of head dress.
adorno interior
Fabrics, generally of small dimensions, of woven fibre found inside houses.
Aguada
Style of textile in tapestry or warp face weave that reproduces iconographic patterns associated with the Aguada culture or society.
aguja
Needle made out of metal, bone, wood or cactus spine that has an eye through which a thread passes and whose functions are i) to join physico-structural components with stitches and joins, ii) join attached components and iii) join together extended components.
aguja de acabado
A small needle of metal, bone, wood or cactus spine that has an eye through which a thread passes and whose functions are to finish the warp, selvages and borders.
aguja grande
Large needle made out of metal, bone, wood or cactus spine that has an eye through which a thread passes and whose functions are i) to join physico-structural components with stitches and joins, ii) join attached components and iii) join together extended components. Used for less fine work: tacking stitches and basting.
aguja mediana
Middle-sized needle made out of metal, bone, wood or cactus spine that has an eye through which a thread passes and whose functions are i) to join physico-structural components with stitches and joins, ii) join attached components and iii) join together extended components. Used for work of intermediate fineness.
aguja para croché
Needle made out of metal, bone, tooth, wood or cactus spine with a doubled point used to finish selvages and borders in crochet. Nowadays crochet needles are made out of metal, but there is some evidence of the use of archaeological instruments of teeth to carry out crochet techniques from the Middle Horizon.
aguja pequeña
Small, thin needle made out of metal, bone, wood or cactus spine that has an eye through which a thread passes and whose functions are i) to join physico-structural components with stitches and joins, ii) join attached components and iii) join together extended components. Used for the finest work.
agujilla de acabado
Fine needle made out of metal, bone, wood or cactus spine that has an eye through which a thread passes and whose functions are to finish the warp, the selvages and borders.
agujilla de cosido
For fine textiles, a fine needle made out of metal, bone, wood or cactus spine that has an eye through which a thread passes and whose functions are i) to join physico-structural components with stitches and joins, ii) join attached components and iii) join together extended components.
agujón
A needle of larger size made out of metal, bone, wood or cactus spine that has an eye through which a thread passes and whose functions are i) to join physico-structural components with stitches and joins, ii) join attached components and iii) join together extended components. Used for less fine work: tacking stitch and basting.
agujón de acabado
Thick needle of metal, bone, work or cactus spine with an eye through which a thread passes, used in bulky textiles to finish warp, selvage and borders.
agujón de cosido
For bulkier textiles, for example blankets, a thick needle of metal, bone, wood or cactus spine, that has an eye through which a thread passes and whose functions are i) to join physico-structural components with stitches and joins, ii) join attached components and iii) join together extended components.
ahuasca
Quechua category of textiles of coarse quality as opposed to qumpi, textiles of fine quality.
ahuayo
Third stage of weaving apprenticeship so-called because of the production of the ahuayo (Aym. awayi, Que. lliclla) which is elaborated between 15 and 19 years of age. Divided into three smaller periods: in Aymara called initial or early, intermediate and late ahuayo, or in Quechua early, middle and late awana.
ahuayo general
Item of fabric, woven on a loom from camellid fibre, in square or rectangular form, made out of two pieces joined at the seam, with designs on the central part and the two narrow parts at the seam; also with two plain parts or pampas that comprise the widest of the two parts; has different uses, being used to carry a baby, foodstuffs or other objects
ahuayo inicio
First phase of the third stage of textile apprenticeship named after the production of ahuayo (awayu) made between 15 and 16 years old. The content includes learning about floating threads (palla) counting up to three (kinsa palla, 3,3). The equivalent stage in Quechua is called early llijlla awana. This stage has three moments: early, intermediate and late.
ahuayo intermedio
Second phase of the third stage of training/apprenticeship so named because of the mantle (ahuayo) produced between 16 and 18 years of age. The content includes learning the techniques of choice or floating threads (palla), counting up to four (pusi palla 4,4) and double weaving. The equivalent stage in Quechua is intermediate called llijlla awana.
ahuayo para instrumentos
Large ahuayo that is used to keep instruments of larger size for tack stitching, plaiting, warping and wefting, and especially the cross-piece poles, paling, shuttles, and spatulas, amongst others.
ahuayo tardío
Third phase of the third stage of textile apprenticeship named after the production of ahuayo (awayu) made between 19 and 25 years old or over. The content includes learning about techniques of reselection or supplementary threads (apsu) and by single unit (ajllita) and quantity (ajllira). The equivalent stage in Quechua is called late llijlla awana.
ajedrezado
Geometric figurative motif (ina apsu) comprised of square figures that alternate in colour, and especially associated with notions of war and territory. Found in belts and scarves and in the laces of of Inca pouch-bags. Observed in archaeological textiles in warp face weave and tapestry techniques. In warp face weave is elaborated through the operation of the simple technique of fine combing with colour in a line, in technique of floating threads counting by three 3|3, and technique of double weave with 1 or 2 wefts. The examples/models with this motif come from the central coast of Peru and belong to the Late Intermediate Period, in Nasca-Huari (Late Nasca or Proliferous), Inka or Paracas styles, among others.
alfombra
Piece of fabric woven out of cotton, fibre or other materials, or larger or smaller size, with different designs, used to cover the floor.